There have been a lot of posts in different forums about the factory chain tensioner. Any problems with the tensioner are not the fault of Roland and Heather.... It comes with the kit.
I do not know how to post 3 pix in one post but I will try.
I, had my tensioner pull into the spokes. There are 3 of friends in Mesa, AZ building Spookys. My son, just started, my buddy Bob, and me.
The 3 shots of the tensioner were shot by my friend, Bob who took the pix. I threw away the factory tensioner and made my own. After 12 rides now, I have not had to touch the tensioner.
The following shots are of Bob's wheel. He was ready to drill a hole in the bike to lock in the tensioner, but was going to ride it to be sure of the location. 10 seconds, let out the clutch and wiped out 6 spokes.... He decided to use my tensioner. It is virtually impossable for the tensioner wheel to go into the spokes, unless the pivot bolt comes off ( I used nylon insert nut). Moving the adjuster up, will adjust tighter free-play in the chain.

I hope I adjusted the pix small enough. The bar of steel is 3/16ths x 1 inch. Home Depot was about $6 for a 4 foot length.(we also used the steel for front motor mounts). We heated the bar with a propane torch, in a vise we bent the 2 angles using a pipe wrench. The holes are to move the tension wheel if needed, as the chain stretches. Again, the next step is to mount a spring from the top to a mounting point, for any quick heavy loads on the chain.
It works. Play with a better version of this...

The steel.

Good idea....I wonder if aluminum would a better choice of material for weight....

I'd keep an eye on the giant bolt hole you drilled in the chainstay.

Could someone tell me what the size of the hole is that the plastic cog bolt fits into. I made a chain tensioner similar to the one above becuase the little one that came with the kit kept moving.

I`ve had my stock one on my bike since day one and it hasn`t moved, turned,ect.,ect.,ect....I cleaned the place where I was going to install it and roughed up the paint so it would have something to grip to, and that was it....
Hey I likes your idea, and maybe mine will slip soon and take out my spokes...But for 6 months now, it hasn`t moved one bit....JMO..
Thanks for your idea ,
Paul...

A big part of tensioner problems are due to overtightening of the chain...3/4 of an inch of play is pretty good, tighter is NOT better.

Also, when de-cellerating, pull in the clutch, it's a lot easier on the machinery.

If you have the really crappy tensioner wheel with no bearing, you may want to replace it with the better, bearing roller.

after looking at the pics of your new wizzmo-gidget I offer one suggestion for an improvement, try cutting a slot for the mounting of the tensioner wheel...That will give you more freedom of movement to fine adjust wheel placement...One question though, wouldn't it be easier to place a self tapping set screw in the factory tensioner to prevent its shifting? I'd be concerned that the giant hole you drilled in the chain stay would compromise frame strength, just a thought...cheers...Scott

The GIANT hole I drilled is 3/16th. I feel safe with the integrity of the chainstay. Again, my chain adjustment is just moving the upper part of ther bar up a fraction of an inch. Don